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Upon receipt of your floatron, unpack all of the contents, being sure to look inside of the insert for parts. Read all instructions before proceeding. After carefully reading the operating instructions:
The floatron will protect your pool against microorganism invasion. Its solar ionisation process transforms your water into biologically healthy and algae resistant mineral water.
Depending on the volume of water, weather conditions, and usage, the initialisation period will range from about a week to several weeks.
The floatron cannot ionise a pool instantly, because it is designed as a trickle charger with a safe and effective low power output. Therefore, it is important to maintain a normal sanitiser level during this initialisation period until the ion concentration reaches a protective level.
The mineral electrode is made of a unique alloy of several specific metals, predominantly copper.
The ion test kit detects the presence of the copper ion, thereby enabling you to determine if the water has an adequate level of protective minerals.
The reagents in the kit are very sensitive, and readings can be affected by various interferences.
Accordingly, use the ion test as a basic and general indicator. Test only once a week; more-often is unnecessary.
The purpose of ion testing is to determine initially that it is safe to reduce chlorine.
Subsequently, it is to establish a floating schedule which results in a steady ion reading of approximately 0.3 ppm.
Depending on conditions, pools with 75,700 litres or more usually require full time floating.
Smaller pools will usually maintain an adequate ion level with a part time floating schedule. For example, one-day-in, one-day-out, two-days-in, one-day-out, one-week-in, one-week-out, etc.
Pools with screened enclosures will probably require full time floating as the output will be about half of that with normal full sun.
During this period you should observe the ion level build up to approximately 0.3 ppm.
Float the unit daily and do not reduce the floating schedule unless the ion level tends to climb too high.
Remember, more ions are not better. The water has a capacity to hold only a certain amount of minerals, and attempting to exceed what is known as 'saturation point' may result in minerals collecting on pool surfaces.
It is important to spend a few minutes a week to check the ion level and to keep the electrodes clean (see 'Electrode Cleaning').
In addition to generating beneficial mineral ions, the floatron is the only purifier that collects undesirable minerals such as calcium and iron.
This has the effect of softening your water. The sacrificial mineral electrode is designed to slowly erode away and, in the process, will form a scale buildup which will require occasional cleaning.
The spring electrode may also form a scale, which normally consists of calcium, and should also be cleaned.
The initial rate of buildup will be quicker in harder water, and will slow as the water becomes progressively softened.
Heavily scaled electrodes will restrict electrical flow and slow the ionisation process. It is, therefore, advantageous to clean them on a weekly basis:
The electrode does not need to be cleaned down to bare metal; although, the spring is relatively easy to clean completely.
If the majority of the scale is removed, the floatron will perform satisfactorily. It is not possible to clean the electrodes too much or too often. The cleaner the electrodes, the more efficient the operation.
Occasionally, the screen mesh will require cleaning to ensure a free flow of water and ion exchange. Because the mesh is very fine, deposits can slowly block the openings in the screen and restrict water flow.
To clean the white mesh screen:
The diluted acid dip can also be used to clean the electrodes:
It is important to spend a few minutes a week to monitor the water balance, clean the unit, and to learn the trends.
After a couple of months of experience, you should have a good idea about how little chlorine or oxidiser is required, how much floating time does the job, the best way to clean the electrodes and how often they need cleaning.
The floatron works well with trace chlorine or any other oxidiser of your choice. Algaecides, conditioners, clarifies etc. are unnecessary.
Higher chlorine levels may be required with an increase in water temperature, increased swimmer load, rainfall or with new water added.
If using liquid chlorine, add at or after sundown because the Sun's rays quickly neutralise chlorine.
The recommended levels are not absolute and may vary with changing water conditions.
What works best for your pool will be determined by experience. Allow your water to seek its own balance.
Do not arbitrarily alter the pH, apply large doses of chlorine (AKA 'Shock'), add algaecide, add conditioner or try to change perfectly-clear water.
Give your pool water time to stabilise, and remember...SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY!
The mineral electrode is sacrificial and design to slowly disintegrate. After an average of 12 - 24 months, depending on conditions, the electrode will wear away and require replacement. You will know this when it is 'pencil thin', or about 1/4 inch at its thinnest point. To remove the spent electrode:
The procedure for installing the electrode is in reverse order, and can be found under 'Initial Assembly'.
NOTE: Always keep the same end of the electrode to the floater. Do not swap ends when removing and replacing your electrode.
Whether closing for the winter or for vacation, your pool water should remain clear for months if you prepare the pool correctly:
If the pool was shut down with an insufficient ion level, or severe conditions were encountered late in the off season, less than clear water conditions may be experienced. Upon opening:
It is highly unlikely that your floatron will not generate ions. Should there be any doubt, the following quick check will visually prove electrical generation:
